Rice sheets or cheong fun.

Sometimes it's the most simple things that allow a restaurant, cafe or food stall, to be judged. Apart from the obvious things such as dirty cutlery or scuttling cockroaches, there will be something on the menu, a 'simple' classic, that gives away the skill and quality of the chef or cook. For me, it’s the cheong fun, 腸粉, rice noodle roll. If done well, the noodle roll should be thin but thick enough to hold the shape, pure white (yet translucent at the edges) and glossy, soft and silky (but with some bite), and freshly cooked off the steamer served up hot and plump with quality fillings - usually fresh prawn or char sui pork. Hot soy based sauce is poured over before serving. If done poorly, it’s granular, stodgy, thick and cold, with insipid flat, dull fillings. Always order a plate when having dim sum to get an idea of the kitchen.